What actually counts as vintage, how to read a label, why you should never trust the size, and a checklist you can tick off before you buy. A beginner's guide written from the Taro's Wish shop floor.
What do I mean by vintage?
When I first started shopping for vintage, one of the first things I wondered was what actually counts as vintage clothing.
Vintage clothing means pieces that are genuinely from a past era. We're talking about clothes that were actually made and worn decades ago, not just things that look old. Most people consider clothing from 20 or more years ago as vintage, though some collectors prefer even older pieces. The exact age isn't set in stone. What matters is that it's an authentic garment from another time.
It helps to keep four words apart, because shops and sellers use them loosely:
- Vintage A genuine garment from a past era, usually 20+ years old. It comes from that time.
- Secondhand Simply owned or worn before. A T-shirt made last year can be secondhand, but it is not vintage.
- Retro Newly made clothing inspired by the past, like a modern dress designed to look 1950s. Retro copies an older style; vintage actually comes from it.
- Antique Usually over 100 years old and often of historical value, so it is rare in everyday vintage shops.
If you are new to buying vintage clothing, I don't think you need to worry too much about exact definitions. I usually look at the period details, fabric, labels and construction of a piece. The more vintage clothing you handle, whether in stores or online, the easier it becomes to recognise something genuinely old rather than something simply made to look that way.
Why do people choose vintage garments over new?
For me, choosing vintage is not just about wearing something different. It is a way of showing who I am without having to explain it.
Our taste is shaped by the things we love: the style of a certain decade, a favourite designer, a scene from a film, a song, or even a feeling we cannot put into words. When I find a rare vintage piece or a design that is no longer made, it feels like discovering a small part of my own world.
Clothing that has already lived a life may not be perfect, but that is sometimes what makes it feel personal.
There is something special about a garment with history. Its craftsmanship, age and small signs of wear give it a character that mass-produced fashion often lacks.
Choosing vintage also makes me think more carefully about what I buy. Giving an existing garment another life can reduce waste and helps me step away from fast fashion. I feel the same about vintage leather and fur. These materials already exist, and when properly cared for they can remain wearable for decades. Choosing vintage extends their useful life without creating demand for newly produced animal materials or short-lived synthetic PU alternatives. You can read more about how we think about this on our sustainability page.
In the end, I think many people choose vintage for the same reason I do. It brings together the things we love, the values we care about and the people we are becoming.
How to start choosing vintage clothing
You don't need to know everything about vintage to start. The best place to begin is with what already feels like you: the styles you enjoy, the clothes you will actually wear and the pieces that deserve a place in your wardrobe.
Start with your own style
When I first started buying vintage, I was often drawn to dramatic pieces because they looked unusual. But if something does not suit your lifestyle or wardrobe, you may never wear it.
Start with styles you already feel comfortable in. Look for shapes that suit you and pieces that work with clothes you already own. You can try more dramatic styles later as your confidence grows.
Vintage does not need to look obviously vintage to feel special. A simple shirt with beautiful fabric and a good fit can become one of your favourite pieces.
Read a vintage clothing label
I always check the label when looking at a vintage piece. It can tell you the brand, country of origin, fabric content and care instructions. The size may be listed too, but vintage sizing can be very different from modern sizing, so I always rely on the actual measurements instead. Jump to: don't trust the size, check the measurements ↓
Labels can also help you identify when and where a garment was made, or whether it may be a designer piece. However, a label is only one clue, so it is important to look at the fabric, stitching and construction too.
Looking for authenticated pieces? Browse our vintage designer collections.
Look at fabric, construction and details
This is how to judge vintage clothing quality. Check the fabric first: wool, silk, cotton and linen age beautifully. Feel the weight and quality. Natural fibres were far more common in older vintage.
Then examine the construction: stitching quality, seam finishing, lining (a full lining can be a sign of better construction), buttons (material and how they are attached), zippers (metal or plastic, and the brand) and the shoulder construction.
Pro tip from Taro's WishSometimes the smallest details tell you more than the size label. Hand-sewn buttonholes, quality seams and unusual construction reveal both the era and the quality of a piece.
Check the era, but don't obsess over it
Wondering how to tell what era a vintage piece is from? Start with the label, fabric, construction, silhouette and small details such as buttons and zippers. Each decade has its familiar signatures:
- 1950sFitted waists, full skirts
- 1960sShift dresses, mod styles
- 1970sFlares, wide lapels
- 1980sBold colour, strong shoulders
- 1990sMinimalism, grunge
But here's the truth: you don't need to identify exact years to enjoy vintage fashion. Focus on whether you love it and whether it fits.
Don't trust the size. Check the measurements.
The most important rule for buying vintage clothing online: never buy by size alone. Always check the measurements.
Vintage sizing is different because different eras used different standards, different countries had their own systems, and modern vanity sizing was less common or worked differently. A vintage size 12 might be a modern size 4.
Measurements to check:
| Garment | Measure these |
|---|---|
| Tops & dresses | Bust (pit to pit), waist, shoulder width, length |
| Trousers | Waist, hip, rise, inseam |
| Skirts | Waist, hip, length |
Compare the numbers with clothes you already own that fit well. This is the only reliable way to get a proper vintage clothing fit. If you want the full method, including how we measure and what "laid flat" means, read our guide to sizing and measurements.
Check the condition before you buy
Vintage is not new clothing. It has history. Understanding condition helps you make smart choices when buying vintage.
Normal signs of age
These add character to vintage clothes and are normal in genuine vintage clothing:
Character, not damage
- Fading, as colours soften over time
- Patina and natural ageing
- Slight wear at cuffs or hems
- Softened fabric
- Minor marks
Potential problems
Watch for serious issues that affect whether you can actually wear the piece:
Check before you buy
- Leather peeling or cracking
- Brittle material, especially synthetics and rubber
- Broken zippers or hardware
- Missing buttons
- Heavy stains
- Holes (check armpits and stress points)
- Loose seams
Critical: material ageing is more serious than visible dirt. Some vintage materials deteriorate chemically and become brittle, sticky or fragile. This is often irreversible.
At Taro's Wish every listing carries a condition rating from 1 to 5, with New with Tags on top. You can see exactly what each rating means in our condition rating guide.
Ask about smell before buying
Real talk: a little musty smell from storage is normal with vintage clothing. In most cases a good clean is all it takes to get rid of it. If you're buying vintage clothing online and are sensitive to smells, simply ask the seller before ordering. Some fabrics hold onto smells more than others, so it's worth checking if you're unsure.
Learn to accept imperfections
Should vintage clothing have imperfections? Yes, but know the difference between character and damage.
Character includes natural fading, patina on leather and metal, gentle wear from use and signs of time. Damage means structural deterioration, material breakdown (cracking, peeling), large holes or stains, and broken elements.
The value of vintage fashion doesn't come from perfection. Some wear tells the story. But serious deterioration affects wearability. Ask yourself: does this flaw enhance the piece or ruin it? Can I actually wear this?
You don't need to know who wore it before
You're not inheriting someone's memories when you choose vintage clothing. You're inheriting the design of its era, the craftsmanship, the cultural moment and the aesthetic. You become the next part of its story. How you wear it, style it and make it yours is what matters.
A simple checklist for buying vintage online
Before you buy, tick these off:
A reliable vintage seller should clearly describe the condition and disclose any noticeable odour, damage or material ageing. At Taro's Wish we include these details in the product description whenever they apply, and our refund and returns policy is published in full.
Once you understand the measurements, condition and details, you can shop for vintage online with much more confidence. The rest comes naturally with experience.
Your taste is yours
You might discover vintage fashion because of a designer you admire, a film that inspired you, a photo from a certain era, or simply: "I saw it and knew it was mine." All valid reasons.
Year, brand, designer and measurements can help you understand a vintage piece. But they don't decide whether it's right for you.
The more vintage clothing you explore, the easier it becomes to understand your own style. Keep what feels like you, leave what does not, and wear each piece in your own way. That is what makes vintage so enjoyable.
Find something that feels like you
New vintage arrivals land every week, each one measured laid flat and condition-rated before it goes online.
|･ω･)ﾉ explore new arrivalsor browse the designer labels
Quick answers
What counts as vintage clothing?
Vintage clothing is a genuine garment made and worn in a past era, usually 20 or more years ago. The exact age is not fixed. What matters is that the piece is authentically from another time, not a new item made to look old.
What is the difference between vintage, retro and secondhand?
Secondhand means an item has been owned or worn before, whatever its age. Retro is newly made clothing inspired by a past style. Vintage actually comes from that past era. Antique usually means over 100 years old.
Why is vintage sizing different from modern sizing?
Different eras used different sizing standards, different countries had their own systems, and modern vanity sizing was less common. A vintage size 12 can be a modern size 4, so always buy by the garment's measurements and compare them with clothes you own that fit well.
Should vintage clothing have imperfections?
Yes, some. Fading, patina, softened fabric and light wear at cuffs or hems are normal signs of age. Cracking, peeling, brittle or sticky material, large holes, heavy stains and broken hardware are damage, and they affect whether you can actually wear the piece.
Is it normal for vintage clothes to smell?
A light musty smell from storage is normal and usually disappears with a good clean. If you are sensitive to smells, ask the seller before ordering, because some fabrics hold onto odours more than others.
